The field of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. Then when 3Racing sent over their SCX10 II, I had to scoop one as much as see what all the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
HOW MUCH: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for quick learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning ahead of the motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing
This drifter has quite a bit going for it; well manufactured, plenty of pretty aluminum and rolls in at the very reasonable price. Handling is nice at the same time when you become accustomed to the kit setup, and yes it accepts an incredibly number of body styles. There’s also a lot of tunability for those that want to tinker, which means this car should grow with you for your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is actually a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It offers cutouts at the base for your front and back diffs to peek through as well as a bazillion countersunk holes. A large number of can be used as mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually a number of left empty. They are often employed to control chassis flex, however, not together with the stock top deck; an optional you have to be bought. The design is a lot like a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and ultimately the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is easy to access and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.
? Apart from a number of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are being used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll while the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars may be the serious level of steering throw they have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as near the edges in the chassis as you can. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to control the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend most of their time sideways, I wanted a great servo to keep up with the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I needed it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 relies on a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A massive, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, where the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys retain the front belt high above the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength on the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit using a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.
? To give the D4 a bit of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This really is a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick pair of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, having said that i do remember an approach I used quite some time back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white on the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the final result … and it also was easy. That’s good because I’m an incredibly impatient painter!
About The TRACK
With this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I had been heading there to do an image shoot for another vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and obtain some sideways action?
The steering on the D4 is fairly amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from your parts. Even CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look a little bit funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the proper direction. This is, in part, thanks to the awesome handling of your D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your drifter, you may control the angle of attack and the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to do exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle adjustments to change the angle of your D4 when and where I needed. Sliding within a little shallow? Increase the throttle to find the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit and the D4 would get right back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, and the Novak system is designed for just that. I have done really need to be a bit creative using the install of your system due to only a little space on the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving connected touring cars for a while, it can do take a little becoming accustomed to understanding that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is correctly across the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control when you get it, it’s beautiful. Taking a car and pitching it sideways using a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at lower than several inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of control thing, along with the D4 will it wonderfully. The kit setup is great, but if you feel as if you need more of something anything there’s lots of things to adjust. I actually enjoyed the automobile together with the kit setup plus it was just dependent on battery power pack or two before I had been swinging the back round the hairpins, round the carousel and backwards and forwards through the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery around the diffuser, but that’s something I’m eager for.
There’s very little that you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all that fast. I did so, however, offer an issue with the front belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept along with it, looking to overcome the problem with driving, but soon had to RPM Traxxas slash parts it straight into actually give it a look. In the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ which is supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square in the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes down in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with a couple of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a bit more. Problem solved.